Pigmentation is one of the concerns I see most often in Asian skin, but treating it well requires a little more thought than simply choosing a laser and turning up the intensity.
Asian skin can be more prone to producing pigment in response to inflammation, which means an overly aggressive treatment can sometimes leave you with more pigmentation than you started with. For me, the goal is always controlled improvement, not treating the skin as aggressively as possible.
So, which treatments can suit pigmentation in Asian skin?
Pico
Pico laser is one of my most recommended treatments when pigmentation is the primary concern. It uses ultra-short pulses of energy to break down pigment with minimal heat, which can be particularly useful when treating skin prone to pigmentation or melasma. I particularly like it when I want to target unwanted pigment without unnecessarily heating the surrounding skin.
And with melasma, that distinction matters.
Can it suit Asian skin? Yes. Pico is a great option for Asian skin when pigmentation or melasma is the primary concern, provided the settings are carefully prescribed for the individual's skin.
Moxi
Moxi is a treatment I often consider when there is a combination of pigmentation, uneven tone and early sun damage. It uses a 1927nm wavelength to treat the superficial layers of the skin without removing it entirely. The result is a controlled resurfacing treatment that can improve both pigment and overall skin quality.
For someone who wants to address pigmentation but also wants their skin to look fresher and more refined, Moxi can be a beautiful option.
Can it suit Asian skin? Absolutely. Moxi can be used across darker skin types when appropriately adjusted, and I particularly consider it when pigmentation is accompanied by early signs of ageing.
BBL
BBL (BroadBand Light) works differently again. It uses broad-spectrum light to target pigment, as well as some of the redness and sun damage that can contribute to an uneven complexion. I often consider BBL when pigmentation is part of a bigger picture of sun damage rather than an isolated concern.
Can it suit Asian skin? Potentially. However, I would be more cautious. Not all practitioners have experience using this device on Asian skin. I have seen a number of Asian clients with rebound pigmentation after having BBL elsewhere.
Tribrid
Sometimes pigmentation isn't the only thing we are treating. Tribrid combines Moxi, Halo and Erbium wavelengths, allowing us to address pigmentation alongside texture, fine lines and other signs of ageing.
For someone looking to improve the overall quality of their skin rather than simply remove isolated pigmentation, this can be a particularly comprehensive treatment.
Can it suit Asian skin? Yes, in appropriately selected clients. Tribrid can be prescribed across a broad range of skin types, with the depth and intensity carefully adjusted according to the individual. I consider it when pigmentation sits alongside broader concerns such as texture, scarring or skin ageing.
And what about melasma?
This is where I become particularly cautious.
Melasma is not simply pigment sitting on the surface of the skin waiting to be removed. It is a chronic, reactive condition, and things like UV exposure, hormones and visible light can all influence it.
Trying to treat melasma too aggressively can sometimes make it more active. This is why I don't look at pigmentation and think, let's just use the strongest laser.
Instead, I look at the type of pigmentation, your skin tone, how reactive your skin is, what you are currently using at home and what is likely to give you the best long-term result. Sometimes that means Pico. Sometimes Moxi or BBL. Sometimes a combination. And sometimes, the best treatment is actually to settle the skin first.
Treatments I would be cautious with
When treating pigmentation in Asian skin, I am generally cautious with treatments that create a significant amount of unnecessary heat or inflammation, particularly when there is active melasma or a history of post-inflammatory pigmentation. That does not mean that a particular laser is automatically unsuitable for every person with Asian skin. It means the wavelength, energy, treatment depth and technique matter enormously. I would be particularly cautious with aggressive ablative resurfacing, high-heat treatments and standardised laser settings that have not been tailored to the individual
There isn't one 'best' laser for Asian skin
There is the treatment that is right for your skin, your pigmentation and your goals.
That is ultimately what makes treating pigmentation well a little more nuanced and, in my opinion, much more interesting than simply choosing a machine.
Results vary between individuals, and a Pigmentation Consultation is always necessary before determining the most appropriate treatment plan.
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